Changing Seasons, Changing Skincare.

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Now that the weather seems to be changing all over the country, it’s time to rethink your skincare routine and the services you typically get at your local esthetician’s practice. With higher temperatures and fluctuating humidity levels, there are small tweaks to your regimen that your skin will thank you for.

I live in Naples, Florida, so the seasons are hot and hotter. The only thing that really changes is the level of humidity. However, I grew up in New York where I experienced all seasons. I had to change my skincare routine a bit more often up there. Now, I only have a few tweaks, but they make a huge difference. Here are some of my tips for changing makeup, skincare products, and skincare services you get at your local esthie’s office to accommodate the changing weather.

The constants…

Cleansing Balms and Oils

The use of cleansing balms and oils has been a game changer for me. I always do, and recommend a double cleanse if you have been wearing makeup all day. Balms come in a thick balmy consistency, whereas an oil has an oily consistency, but they both transform into milky textures once water is added. Cleansing balms are “the bomb!” They hydrate your skin while removing oil and residue from the day and are much more gentle, and non-drying as opposed to cleansing wipes that dehydrate your skin. (Recommendations: Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm, Shiseido Perfect Cleansing Oil, Osmosis Lift Away).

Antioxidant Serum

A total MUST! Antioxidant serums protect your skin against free-radical damage by neutralizing them. Not only can antioxidant serums protect you from future damage to your skin, but they will also help repair the damage that has already taken place. A serum I use every day, is vitamin C. I use it on bare, clean skin, only in the morning. Not all serums are created equal. The most effective type is L-ascorbic acid, however, it is highly acidic and can irritate some people’s skin. You also want to look for serums containing at least ten percent concentration. Vitamin C can oxidize easily so be sure to keep the containers tightly closed at all times. (Recommendations: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic serum, Derma E Vitamin C Concentrated Serum, Ole Henrikson Truth Serum).

Retinol

Retinol is a form of vitamin A. It promotes cell turnover and collagen production, and is probably the best anti-aging product you can use since it also helps in refining fine lines and fights some of the effects of sun damage. Because it promotes faster cell turnover, it can cause heightened sensitivity to the sun, so even though you should always be diligent about your use of SPF, in the summer, it’s even more important. Retinol should be applied at night. (Recommendations: Shani Darden Retinol Reform, The Ordinary Retinol in Squalene).

SPF

You will always need sun protection – winter, spring, summer, or fall. If you live in sunny or tropical areas, the reason is obvious, but if you live in areas where you get a lot rain or snow, it’s just as important. Water and snow reflect the sunlight and can cause sunburn. Some foundation formulations contain SPF, but I prefer using sunblock as a separate product. For one, you have to use a dollop about the size of a nickel to fully protect your facial and neck skin. It is highly unlikely that you will use that much foundation on your face. Let the sun protection sit on your face for a few minutes before applying your makeup to avoid the chances of removing any. I also make it a habit of applying it on my lips. Look at the labels and search for physical sunscreens (those containing minerals such as titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide as the main active ingredient). Also look for broad spectrum, SPF of at least 30, fragrance-free, oil-free, and paraben-free formulations.

Remember that you have to reapply your SPF throughout the day – every two hours, so I recommend a powder formula, or a light spray formula that can lay well on makeup without messing it up. (Recommendations: Elta MD UV Clear Broad Spectrum SPF and the tinted version, Colorscience Sunforgettable Mineral SPF 50 Sunscreen Brush, Supergoop Defense Refresh (Re)setting Mist SPF 40).

Eye Cream

Eye cream needs to be used always and twice daily. The skin around the eyes is fragile, subject to dryness and quick to show the early signs of aging. I kid you not - I have been wearing eye cream since I’m ten (thanks mom). I always recommend two kinds of eye cream. A daytime cream which is lighter and that will not cause caking under makeup, and then an evening cream that is a bit thicker containing hyaluronic acid for hydration. I tend to follow this all year round, but I do like to switch around brands. Make sure to apply the eye cream not just below your eyes, but all around the orbital bone by tapping gently. (Recommendations: Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Cloud Hydrating Eye Gel, Ole Henriksen Banana Bright Eye Creme, Shiseido Benefiance Wrinkle Smoothing Eye Cream).

Lip Balm

I have tried many and have narrowed it down to two of my favorites. Regardless of which ones you like, always start and finish your day with a little love for those lips. (Recommendations: Bioderma Atoderm Moisturizing Lip Stick, EltaMD UV Lip Balm Broad-Spectrum SPF 31).

The skincare products that will need to be tweaked…

With higher temperatures and higher humidity, your skin will need a few changes when it comes to moisturizers and face wash.

Moisturizer

I typically don’t use a moisturizer in the morning because my SPF is dual purpose, and I live in warm weather, so this might be different for you, but I still use one at night. With warmer temperatures, consider moving to a lighter formulation containing hyaluronic acid to help hold moisture, yet not creating an oil well on your face overnight. If you tend to have dryer skin and use both during the day, normally summertime is a good time to use a dual purpose SPF. This is particularly important if you are acne- prone. (Recommendations: Shani Darden Skincare Weightless Oil Free Moisturizer, Peter Thomas Roth Water Drench Hyaluronic Acid Moisturizer)

Exfoliation Products

Remember that you should never over-exfoliate, but in the summer, you can step it up a bit. I recommend chemical exfoliants as opposed to physical ones that irritate the skin. Using alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA) pads a couple of times per week is very helpful. They unclog pores and keep them clean of sebum which can cause summer breakouts. Another of my favorite products are enzyme peels. They are gentle and leave your skin super soft.(Recommendations: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Peel Pads, Naturopathica Sweet Cherry Brightening Enzyme Peel).

Face Wash

Summer time is a good time to switch from a heavy oil-based cleanser to a gentle lightly foaming cleanser. However, if your skin still tends to be dry, continue with your heavier cleanser at night and use the foaming one during the day. Just make sure that your foaming cleanser is still gentle and not drying. (Recommendations: La Roche-Posay Micellar Foaming Water Face Cleanser, Derma E Hydrating Gentle Cleanser).

Hydration

No matter what time of year it is, you still need to hydrate to keep your skin looking great. However, if you play sports or workout outside, you will be losing more water than normal. This means that you should drink about two additional large glasses more per day than you normally do. Make sure you’re getting really clean water free of contaminants. (Rkin Zero Installation Purifier).

The makeup products that will need to be tweaked…

Remember that you should always try to use non-comedogenic products, but it’s especially important in the summer time when our pores tend to clog more easily.

Concealer

I tend to have very dark circles. They run in my family, so I need good coverage always. If you have been blessed with undereyes that don’t look like you’re recovering from a sucker punch, you can consider using a dryer formula. For some reason, I tend to also sweat below my eyes, so during the summer I look for concealers that have a little less coverage, but not necessarily less moisture. I always still apply a lighter eye cream below to make sure it doesn’t cake. If you’re an under-eye sweater, you can also put a VERY light layer of primer before applying your concealer. I do think that this helps a lot. (Recommendations: NARS Radiant Creamy Concealer, Glossier Stretch Concealer, Smashbox Hydrating Under Eye Primer).

Foundation

I tend to wear a light formula all the time, but summer is a great time to simplify your entire routine. This may mean not wearing foundation at all during the day. I use a tinted SPF during the day. The coverage is much lighter and I don’t feel gross when the temperatures reach above ninety degrees. I reserve my light foundation for special occasions only. (Recommendations: Elta MD Tinted SPF, Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation, Shiseido Synchro Skin Self-Refreshing Foundation).

Highlighters

So our skin tends to look dewier in the warmer weather, so I like to be more careful when I use highlighters in the summer. Anyone above the age of thirty-five needs to watch out for highlighters anyway because they can make you look older and accentuate fine lines if not applied properly, and in the right places. I tend to forgo the highlighter in the heat and only use it if I’m doing serious glam makeup for an occasion (praying that the AC will be turned up). (Recommendations: Marc Jacobs Dew Drops Coconut Gel Highlighter, Fenty Beauty Killawatt Freestyle Highlighter Duo).

The services to consider and reconsider…

Peels

Peels are wonderful for cleaning pores, refining textured skin, removing dead layers and are beneficial for all skin types. However, I have never really believed in heavy duty chemical peels because I think they ultimately damage the skin only to reveal even more pigmentation at the first sign of sun exposure. That being said, I do love light peels such as glycolic or salicylic acid which have no downtime, unclog the skin and don’t make your skin peel. Glycolic or AHA peels are great for brightening and waking up dull skin whereas salicylic acid peels help people who struggle with breakouts. Depending on your lifestyle, summertime is not the best time for peels. If you are a boater, golfer or beach goer – it’s definitely not the time. Reserve peels for fall and winter seasons.

Microneedling

Our skin is most exposed during the summer months, so the allure of having nicer looking skin in the summer is normal. Microneedling can still be performed in the summer time, but avoid the sun as much as possible for two to four days after that treatment. You might consider microneedling on a Monday or Tuesday so that your weekend trip to the beach is not interrupted.

Dermaplaning

To me, dermaplaning is probably one of my most favorite procedures and unlike most people who see getting rid of hair as the number one reason to do it, I think it’s secondary to the real benefit which is getting rid of dead skin. An esthetician who is well versed in this procedure does six to eight passes with the scalpel over your skin which gives you an amazing glow. But, the best part of it, is that all the lotions and potions you apply for the next few weeks will penetrate deeper and have greater effects. This is a safe procedure to do during the summer, but make sure you really protect your skin while out in the sun.

Body Scrubs

This is a treatment you can do all year round, but it’s amazing right before you have to bare your body to the public. With the use of a dry brush, exfoliation and a hydrating lotion, you can achieve that summer glow you’ve been missing all winter. (Recommendations: Dry Skin Body Brush, Brazilian Bod Buff, Brazilian Bum Bum Cream).

summer skincare skincare ole henriksen EltaMD Shiseido Naples Florida Elemis Derma E Brazilian Bum Bum NARS Nars Creamy Concealer La Roche-Posay Shani Darden SkinCeuticals The Ordinary Supergoop Colorscience Peter Thomas Roth Glossier Giorgio Armani Marc Jacobs Fenty Beauty

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